Ubud Bali with kids: why this jungle town is a great option for long-term stays
- Vimal Fernandez
- 4 days ago
- 4 min read
Ubud is the only place in the world where you can drop your kids at school, get a colon cleanse, eat a five-star brunch, and get harassed by monkeys all before 10 AM. 🧘♂️🐒💨
Ubud is the cultural beating heart of Bali, nestled among emerald rice paddies and steep ravines in the Gianyar regency. While the south has the surf and the party, Ubud has the jungle and the soul. Historically the home of Balinese royalty and a magnet for artists, it’s now the world headquarters for yoga enthusiasts, digital nomads, and expat families who want a different life.
We rolled in during mid-March. Technically, this is the "low season" because of the humidity and rain, but it wasn’t bad at all. You get lower prices, smaller crowds, and the weather isn't even that bad—just a few tropical showers and some clouds, but still plenty of sun.
Where to stay: Nyuh Kuning
We skipped the busy center and stayed in the Nyuh Kuning neighborhood at Bijia Villa. A few friends recommended this area, and they were spot on. It’s walkable (a rarity in Bali), the architecture is stunningly traditional, and it’s significantly quieter.
There’s a little strip of cafes and a large field where the kids can run around without you worrying about them being clipped by a passing scooter. If you want the "village" feel without the exhaust fumes, this is it.
A robust childcare infrastructure
One of the biggest hurdles of early retirement with kids is that you’re suddenly the 24/7 child activity coordinator. Ubud solves this with plenty of options for childcare:
Bali Family Hangout: This is a good short-term fix. It’s a community space where kids can be kids. For kids 3 and under, it’s about $23 a day (9:00 - 1:30) including lunch. For the older crew (4+), it’s $26 until 3:00 PM.
Pelangi School: If you’re looking for something more than just a nature playgroup, this is a legit academic school. They take kids for a minimum of one semester (~3 months for $2500), making it a good option for families doing a slow-travel stint.
Hire a nanny: Many expats hire a nanny they find on Facebook groups. A full-time (40hrs/week), reputable, English-speaking nanny typically costs $300/mo.
Getting around
Scooters ($4/day): Driving here is a contact sport. The roads are okay and the traffic is busy. Renting a scooter is the fastest way to get around, but only if you have the nerves for it.
Grab: If you aren’t feeling the "toddler on a moped" vibe, Grab is everywhere, a 20-minute drive costs ~$5.
The highlights
Nyepi: The Day of Silence
We happened to be there for March 19—the Balinese Hindu New Year. It starts with Ogoh-Ogoh, where massive, terrifying demon statues are paraded through the streets. Then, the next day is Nyepi—total silence. The whole island shuts down. No lights, no traveling, no working. Even the airport closes. It’s a wild, beautiful reset that forces the whole family to appreciate what we take for granted, freedom!
Monkey Forest ($24): A total highlight. It’s an iconic, moss-covered landscape filled with hundreds of monkeys. You can knock it out in two hours, just keep a tight grip on your sunglasses.
Bali Bird Park ($75): This place is impressive. It houses a massive collection of Indonesian birds in a way that actually feels humane and spacious.
Titi Batu ($40): This is the "modern expat" hub. It’s got pools, parks, and events for the kids, plus a gym and a coffee shop for the adults.
Si Kecil Bookshop: A tiny library and bookshop that’s worth a visit for a nice, calming break when the humidity gets to be too much.
Food, shopping, and wellness
If you like food, you’re going to have a hard time leaving. We spent a decent amount of time just hitting up various restaurants and cafes. The coffee culture here is world-class.
From hearing my wife and a friend chat, the shopping—from linen clothes to local crafts—is dangerously good for the price. My wife pretty much upgraded her and our daughters’ whole wardrobe in one go.
And then there’s the wellness vibe. You can’t throw a rock without hitting a yoga studio or a cocoa ceremony. So if you want to sit in a circle and talk about your chakras or do a breathwork session underneath a waterfall, this place is for you! It’s high end wellness for a fraction of the cost of a weekend retreat in California.
Going out a little trashy: Bali Dynasty Resort
After the "authentic" jungle life in Ubud, we headed to Kuta to finish at the Bali Dynasty Resort. Look, sometimes you just want the "easy button." This place is a fortress of family fun: scheduled entertainment, restaurants, bars, live music, excursions, and more.
The kids' club is free and runs all day for ages 3 and up. If you have an under 3 year old, you can hire a resort babysitter for $4 an hour. We didn't leave the resort once. It’s the perfect break from the hustle of authentic travel.
Balance is the real luxury
I used to think I wanted to be "hardcore"—totally immersed in local culture and zero Western comforts. But the truth is, especially with 3 young kids, having a modern grocery store, trendy restaurants, and a reputable English-speaking school nearby makes the journey actually sustainable.
For long-term living, Bali is top of the list because it hits a sweet spot. You get the culture, the beauty, and the "chaos" of the East, but you also get the community and Western comforts that make life easy. Heck, maybe I do prefer the beaten path after all—at least when the path has a well-stocked grocery store and reliable childcare.
This post is part of our 'finding our why' series, sharing real-world stories of why families choose financial independence and early retirement with kids.
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